A small piece of the history of brunch in Perth ended last month when the last egg was swept away at a Leederville Sayers café.
It’s been 16 years since Sayers arrived in Perth with its superb cuisine, outdoor atmosphere and excellent coffee that attracts hungry queues most weekends.
Over the years, the city brunch has unfolded as if it were 13 billion years BC, and you can hardly walk down Perth Street without stumbling over crumbled sourdough, potatoes or oat milk, three-quarters full, thank you.
The original owners of Sayers, Mark and Stephanie Sayers, many years ago sold Leatherville Café, which bears their name, to open Sayers Sister in nearby Northbridge.
These days Sayers are behind the counter at Sayers Little Brother (do you feel the theme?) Almost in the suburbs, hidden in an alley away from the main street, and with a more restrained atmosphere than his bright siblings.
The low key is just out of sight, that is, because the food is there. . . Well, there’s nothing restrained in French toasts with banana tortillas and ice cream ($ 18).
Especially not when the toast is as thick and rich as King Henry VIII after a big meal, and the banana tortilla is as crunchy as a July morning in Perth. There aren’t many socially acceptable ways to eat ice cream in public until 9am, but this one – allowing it to slowly melt into your warm combination of toast and pancakes in turn – is one of the best. Make sure you don’t overcrowd Harry and meet Sally, no fakes required.
Also baked polenta with mushrooms, spinach and poached egg ($ 20) is not a dish that can fly below the radar. This there is such a dish that is able to put you in the most pleasant stupor, absently scraping the bowl in search of the last sauce, at the same time sure that you can not eat another piece.
There are many familiar notes for any Sayers regulars that – full disclosure – I believe. The space is bright, inside and out, with lots of pale wood, natural light and more potted plants than the hipster’s living room. Coffee (from $ 4 for flat white) is always very good, and scrambled eggs on toast ($ 11) – the best in Perth for those who like a heavy hand on cream.
On the counter there are good cupcakes, slices, pies and salads, where orders are made with charming and efficient staff.
Go through the door of Sayers Little Brother and you will learn that you are in safe – but not sad – hands. These are the adults who helped shape Perth’s brunch landscape, and it’s visible.
The original Sayers, from whom this story began, may have closed the store, but the same spirit of excellent cooking, excellent service and positive mood that made it such a hit continues to live on.
Modern brunch doyens of Perth have not lost their luster with this charming, restrained member of the Sayers family.
Sayers, younger brother
25 Gladstone Street
PHONE: 0410 180 800
OPEN: On Mondays takeaway coffee only from 7 am to noon, Tuesday to Friday from 7 am to 2 pm, Saturday from 7.30 am to noon.